Fast Pace Racing

Welcome to the finest indoor RC racing shop in the Bay Area!  Our track is currently the largest at over 900 sq. ft!  Aside from our vast selection of Mini-Z replacement and performance parts (PN, Atomic, Kyosho -- to name a few!), we also carry E-flite helis and parts, and the new MicroCrawler from Losi.  Our customer service is unparalleled in our industry.  You will leave our shop knowing you were completely taken care of -- that's the FPR promise.  Swing by and race your Mini-Z, Xmod, Iwaver, and other on-road 1/24th- 1/28th scale R/C today!

 

TJ's picture

Motor Wire Route... PN pod v2 94mm wheelbase

Posted Wed, 08/05/2009 - 5:55pm by TJ

PN motor pod is the best pod in the market right now. So if you're still running that Atomic pod... it's time to upgrade.

A lot of the newer drivers don't really pay much attention to those motor wires hitting the body, rubbing on the tires, etc... but guess what? This scale is so small that when that motor wire hits the body, it actually causes a "tweak" feel to the car.

Where do we run the motor wire? Well, anywhere you want as long as it is not too short or too long. Too long like PN70 motor wire and installing the wires without cutting the length. Those wires is what I call, "too long". So you must shorten them. Too short would be less than an inch where you can visibly see the rear end of the car, not even or balance when looking at it from the rear. This can be caused by having a short wire that's already pulling the motor or too short that when it's soldered to the board and the motor, you can see the kink on the motor wire pushing the rear pod on one side. This too is too short. What you want is to have the motor wire away from the disc plate, top shocks, wheels and differential shaft.

This is how I run my motor wire. (+ positive side wire is a bit long but that's because this car was a 98mm setup before...)

TJ's picture

Transponder wire route

Posted Wed, 08/05/2009 - 5:17pm by TJ

Where to run xponder wire aka pig tail.

1. Open the Board Cover and reamer a hole in the front part of the cover.

2. Insert the wire side of the pig tail into the hole.

TJ's picture

2009 PN 2wd Stock Setup

Posted Mon, 07/27/2009 - 12:44am by TJ

I have been practicing my car with PN regional layout for the past 2 weeks and even had a friend of mine (fast driver) to test the car. Both of us can only do fast lap of 9.41... again, that’s for two weeks. Usually, most of the drivers would drop that time today, then the next day or so they would drop a faster time. Didn't happen to us with my old setup.

TJ's picture

Cheap Body Mount

Posted Mon, 06/01/2009 - 2:13pm by TJ

Tired of having having a body popping out of your car during the practice or race? Sick of taping the body and having a residue after removing the tape? How about having a body that rattles like crazy while driving on the track?Thanks to our friends in Texas for sharing this body mod to us. Simple and effective!

Tools and parts that you'll need:
1. Allen wrench
2. x-acto knife
3. countersunk screw M2x4
4. machine screw m2x8 (you can use countersunk or button head)
5. PN damper plate (it has the shock mount position)
6. Damper post


 

TJ's picture

Loose Front Clip Thread

Posted Tue, 05/26/2009 - 2:28pm by TJ
Sometimes, for some odd reason. My front clip screw just comes off on its own. Could be because it's worn down/loose thread already. To fix this, here's what I do:
 
IMG_0111.jpg picture by Teejay_Cynthia
 
TJ's picture

Atomic Shock Mount

Posted Tue, 05/26/2009 - 2:27pm by TJ
I'm not quite sure why these atomic shocks comes with super stiff springs.Running it makes the rear end of my car feel so jumpy especially when the track (rcp) has uneven surface. I replace these springs sets with stock awd springs since this is much softer than stock atm and it is good  for more bounce/rebound. Then I put thick grease like atomics mid viscosity grease right on the shaft for forward/backward dampening.
 
Left: atm springs Right: stock awd springs
IMG_0109.jpg picture by Teejay_Cynthia
 
TJ's picture

EX-1 UR Wheel Sticktion

Posted Thu, 05/14/2009 - 2:29pm by TJ

sticktion= no such word but you know what I mean.  ;)

Found it only on my drop down wheel conversion. Stock was fine.

If I tighten my steering wheel, the wheel doesn't go back to neutral position on its own. So, I had to screw my wheel a little loose. Lately I noticed that the wheel when steered max left or right and then let go, the wheel doesn't spring back and forth. Not even a little bit. It'll only stop right in the center when let go... it felt like there was binding/sticktion. I never really look into it until one of our fast local driver (Stephen) drove my car and told me that my 2wd stock wasn't centering properly on the straight away. He mentioned that the steering wheel felt weird...

TJ's picture

Installing FPR Front Wheel Bearing Spacer

Posted Wed, 02/11/2009 - 2:31pm by TJ

Tired of having a locked front wheel from coming too close to the wall during the mains? How about having to flip those expensive lock nuts just so you wont have to worry about having it come off? Sick of having 1-2 degree change while cornering because you can't tighten up the lock nut? Fast Pace Racing's new product should help you eliminate all this!

TJ's picture

Atomic SAS Pro Rear Suspension for AWD MA-010

Posted Mon, 01/26/2009 - 2:31pm by TJ

The project is to have this AM car running with new ASF board and fine tune the all new Atomic SAS Pro rear suspension.

TJ's picture

Traction Roll & Spin Outs for AWD MA-010

Posted Fri, 01/23/2009 - 11:00pm by TJ

I always hear drivers especially new drivers complaining about their AWD chattering, hopping, traction rolling and spinning out. Here, I want to share some info on how-to prevent or atleast try to minimize traction roll. Most of you guys probably already know this but we do have new guys that doesn't know yet. So here it is!


You must use tire tape or glue down the tire on the rim. It's a must!!!

If the car starts to hop/chatters, check the tape and condition of the tire.

TJ's picture

Kyosho Ball Diff. Rebuilding AWD MA-010

Posted Fri, 01/23/2009 - 2:32pm by TJ

First time doing something like this. Please bare with me balldiff.

I brought this AWD with me to the Philippines in March and ran it there (RCP track of course). It's the same car with the same diffs that I used for RCX event. After months... I finally found time to rebuild my diffs balldiff.

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TJ's 2008 PNWC AWD Mod Setup

Posted Thu, 01/22/2009 - 2:33pm by TJ

2008 PN Worlds AWD MOD Setup:

Blue/Gray with gold terminals chassis
ASF board with 4562 Fets double stack (2x4)
Stock steel drive shaft
ATM 8t pinion shaft
ATM 29t spur shaft
ATM titanium screws
PN ceramic balls for the diffs
PN ceramic ball bearings
PN 1.5 knuckles front
PN 2.0 knuckles rear
PN +3 wheel offset fronts
PN +2 wheel offset rear
PN green low down springs (non-metallic)
PN light blue low down springs
PN aluminum 19t pinion
Kyosho motor heat sink
Kyosho 20 Wide Rear
Kyosho 30 Narrow Front
Kyosho aluminum lug nuts (kyosho only!)
Kyosho stock plastic swing shaft
Kyosho ball diffs
Kyosho stock front toe
3Racing 98mm extension
3Racing 2 degree toe in rear