PN Tri Damper System tips

I have few things that you guys may want to consider when using this TDS.

About two weeks ago on a Thursday, I put this TDS together with Disc Damper on top, preloaded with red DDS spring. The car ran perfect with it with no wheel hop. I then used this setup for the next days race, FPR's Friday Night Race (4.2.2010). The car felt perfectly fine but not the fact that the exit corner speed was so much slower than the DDS. It felt like the car losts its punch coming out of the corner. This is on my PN70 geared at 13/51.

After that night, I weighed in my car and I knew it was heavy but I didn't think it was that heavy. The car weighs in at 181.7 grams complete with xponder, body and such. PN spec race ready and 181 grams? That's heavy! On Sunday when I came back to the track, I had removed the TDS and installed back my DDS to see how much weight I can shave and how it'll handle on the track. I was able to shave the weight to 170.8 grams. The KO Grand Prix Race that's coming in April, has a minimum weight of 170, so my car was still in spec. The weight removed wasn't just from the TDS. It was everywhere on the car but most of it came from the TDS. I think at least 6-8 grams.

11 grams lighter, I feel that the car will be dominant on the track. I can speed up at exit corner, faster infield, consistent runtime, etc... all these good stuff was in my head when I took that TDS off. This was before I even put the car on the track... Finally, when I did, I definitely gained the torque coming out of a corner but I had to relearn the car. It seemed that the car had lost its steering! I notice myself, off-throttle most of the time just so I can make the next turn-in. It was weird. I never really had to change my cars setup much, especially not the tires, front springs, wheels, etc... even in my DDS days. But after switching back to DDS, I loss all my steering. Then I started to play around with springs and tires to see if I can get it back. The car started to act weird because of the tire combination that I'm now running (PN15 X-pattern, softer springs harder T-bar, etc...). I wasnt familiar with my new set-up but the car was very capable of dropping hot laps like 10.3's. Time that's way faster than my TDS car which was only capable of doing 10.58's! 

The next Friday's Race (4.9.2010), I had my car setup with DDS. I know I didn't have the same steering like my TDS setup but I was feeling really good with the DDS. All through out that night, the car felt very easy to drive and did a fast lap of 10.5's all night. Not bad considering there's 9 cars on the track. Although a bit satisfied, I still think that I needed to do something. This is when I decided to put the TDS back on and I did on Sunday night.

Monday afternoon came, I had my stock car set up with TDS, itching to put it on the track and see how well it'll do with the timer on and the first thing I notice was the steering. It had so much steering that the car rotates in the front instead of the middle! I adjust the side damper and few things here and there and I was able to get use to how the car was reacting. The most important & the very noticeable gain was the steering infield and on the sweeper. The 2 tiles chicane was like a straight shot with the TDS and I was able to hold a tighter line with the TDS on the sweeper and this is with my finger, on-throttle! The "feeling" on the car is one thing but the results with the timing score is what really matters. So, I put on my xponder and started clocking my car and next thing I know, 4 laps later, BAM 10.24!!! I drove my car to its hardest with zero traction roll for 5 straight minutes. I finished 32 laps with:

1x 10.24 fast lap on my 4th lap
4x 10.7 laps when I clipped the walls
2x 10.6 laps when I was thinking I didnt eat lunch yet. lol...
and the rest of the remaining laps were literraly inbetween 10.3-10.5's and my last 3 laps were still at 10.4's. Now that's fast! Forget about the 10.2 fast lap. 10.3-10.5 consistency is where you want your car to get during a race. This is what I always aim for, consistency at its fastest!

I was really happy with the TDS setup on both my stock and mod car and personally, I don't see myself removing this kit unless otherwise I'm being told to race an Atomic Race.  Which we all know, they race in atomic spec class only. Ok, enough of this jiberish... Below, you'll find some good stuff about your TDS, enjoy!

1. The use of Reflex Racing Delrin Ball for lighter weight. At first I thought it will bind or the fittings will be too tight but when I snap the delrin ball on, it was as smooth as the stock metal ball. By replacing the 4x metal balls with this delrin balls, I was able to shave off 1.x grams.

2. I know you want to use those blinged out aluminum lug nuts or lock nuts  but this is where you don't want to use those. Did you know, 4 of those alum nuts weighs in at 1.x grams? So, stick to those plastic nuts that it came with the kit.

3. If shimming is needed like most of our cars, try to stay away from those bigger size steel metal washers. Those are heavy and you have to use four of them. You may want to use plastic (if you can find any) or the smallest OD washer like the PN anodized shims. Also try to not use too much shims. 4 shims (two on each side) to raise the inner side shock is fine.

4. Use the shortest screw you have so you dont have 1-2mm extra thread hanging like the once I have (I ran out of the shorter size).

5. Consider using titanium screws for this system. Although they're a bit pricey, it is worth the money.  Those black screws that comes with the kit are quite heavy if you add them together.

This is how you want your shock to be. FYI... Kyosho oil filled shock is by far the best center shock for the TDS. Router246 also has aluminum shock but yeah, it's aluminum.

To get the proper droop travel on your kyosho oil filled shock, you can use this:

1. Can Spray Straw

2. Cut a piece that measures at 2.5-3.0mm. I would suggest to do 3mm. It is easy to just back off the black lower shock mount than opening the entire shock to put shims inside.

3. With the red straw, the ID or inside diameter is smaller than the shock shaft so I had to cut/slice one side to have it slide in. The clear straw on the other hand has bigger ID which slides perfectly into the shock shaft.

4. Slide the red straw on the shock shaft:

5. Then the stock shock O-ring:

6. Insert the shock shaft into the shock housing:

7. Then the lower mount part of the shock:

You should now have the perfect droop that you want for your car with kyosho oil filled shock!

I'm not going to do the "how-to" on the shock rebuild. I think you can just google that.  Anyway, I hope this helps some of you guys with the same damper system. Good luck!

-Tj Macabuhay