ATM: 96mm Pod (updated: 5.10.2010)

Finally after a long wait, Atomic had released their 96mm Motor Mount. This mount is used with a 98mm Disc Damper Plate and 94mm T-bar or H-plate.

As what's expected from Atomic, this Motor Mount only comes in one color, anodized blue. The kit includes;
-few machined steel screws for: motor, upper arm & T-bar/H-plate
-couple of screw washers
-4x bearing holder (same from old version)
-upper arm for the damper post

The installation is just like their older type 94-98mm motor mount. Very easy with only 5 screws and the motor tab where the motor wire goes are facing the chassis. In 94mm Configuration, routing the motor wires is a bit tricky. In 96mm, you have plenty of space to route the motor wires properly without worrying about them binding your suspension. When I put mine together, it took me a while to figure out the height and spacing I needed for the DDS. Also, I didn't know I had to use 98mm DDS which I didn't have in my tool box. Luckily, I have one laying around in my garage! I did a break down on what you'll need to put this kit together. Hopefully this will make things  a little easier for you guys. Here's what you'll need:

-98mm disc damper plate
-94mm T-bar/H-plate
-tall damper post (post with flange)
-super glue or tire tape (the bearing holder has some serious play on there. Use a tiny drop of super glue to keep them in place or use your tire tape. I had used two tire tape as shims to keep the holder from moving back and forth)
-ATM 2.8mm DDS spacer
-ATM/PN DDS spacer (as thick as the DDS)
-PN titanium M2x8 or M2x10 machine screw (for the top spring damper post)
-PN 2x4mm washer

I'm not going to do a "how-to" for this motor pod as it is very self explanatory. I have few pictures below that you can use as guidelines:

Use 98mm PN or ATM Disc Damper Plate

This is how I routed the motor wires. Make sre there's no binding when you put it together.

Move the t-bar adaptor plate to the longest position using a 94mm t-bar.

I had to use two types of spacers to get this pod working right.
bottom: PN DDS spacer
middle: ATM 2.8mm spacer

And my adjustable coilovers. hehe... This adjust my top spring testion on the disc by adjusting the top nut.

Few good things about this 96mm motor mount are:
-that by having a longer wheelbase, you gain more stability and some may say that the car rotates better in the mid corner. I personally like the 96mm as well as the 98mm for their stability and the ability to absorb the bumps better than a shorter wheelbase like 94mm.
-I also like this mount because I am now able to use all my 94mm T-bar (which I have tons of different variety btw).
-and is lighter than PN's motor mount. A plus for stock racing with minimum of 170 grams or no min weight like club races!

Few things I dont/didnt like about this product:
1. I dont think it'll fit a 14 tooth 64 pitch pinion.
2. The damper post arm is not adjustable. You're stuck in one height or you have to space the DDS up to almost 4mm high!
3. The bearing holders are still crappy, still the same as the old once, and the tolerance are way off that you have to use super glue or some sort of shim!

96mm T-bar vs 96mm Motor Mount?
-T-bar: you're stuck with one kind of material but it's a cheaper way to go 96mm. This 96mm t-bar also works very well.
-Mount: You can use your 94mm T-bar for variety of company, material and thickness can be used. Lighter mount.
Between the two with the same kind of material for T-bar... I can't tell the difference. They both perform the same.

94, 96 or 98mm Configuration?
-This is a drivers preference but below is what I have to say about all three...

94mm:
-is quicker on a short track (like 2010 PNWC layout)
-more rear traction than 96 or 98mm
-nimble/fast in transition
-lots of body available
-unstable on the straightaway
-hops more that longer wheelbase car
-slight understeer on-power vs 98mm

96mm:
-stability
-good for both short and long tracks
-good for both stock and mod
-limited body. Mostly, 94mm bodies.
-basically this is inbetween the 94 and 98 if you can't choose between the two.

98mm:
-very stable
-easy to drive
-good for long tracks (like RCX and 2009 KO GP)
-good for bumpy tracks
-best in mod cars
-more on-power steering than 94mm
-limited 98mm race bodies
-slow in transition
-less rear traction

I have all three of them and I like them all.  

I guess this is where I would end this. Until next week folks! Have a great day and again, thanks for reading!

Update: 5.4.2010:
Spent couple of hours on the track last night, trying to figure out why all of a sudden my car's gear mesh is so loud After converting my motor mount from PN to ATM. When I looked at the motor closely, I noticed that the motor sits on an angle. At first I thought it was the capacitor on the motor that was causing it but it was just how the motor mount is. I wonder if they did this in purpose because sometime couple of years back, I remember someone said that they put their motors on an angle for less resistance or something like that. I wonder if they did the same for this mount of its just a defect? Right now, my gear mesh is still loud no matter what I do to it. I will contact Atomic USA rep about this and will keep you guys posted.

Update: 5.10.2010:
I've sent out an email to Atomic USA rep and I'm still waiting on what to do with the pod. He did tell me to check if the countersink screw is too long that maybe putting pressure on the motor; thus making it sit on an angle. I checked the screw and it doesn't exceed the pod. I also noticed that the negative tab/motor wire was touching the lower part of the motor mount. I thought it was the culprit but when I removed the neg brush, the motor was still on the same angle. I then replace the motor and tried 4 different types of motor; 2xPN70, 1x USA & 1x PN35T. All motors were still sitting on an angle.

I like the 96mm ATM motor mount. My car feels really good in 96mm configuration using the PN t-bars. What I'm trying to get rid of is just the noise from the gear mesh. The noise that's coming from the gear mesh tells you how smooth your car is. With a noisy gear mesh, the on & off throttle gear engagement, is not as smooth as the car with low/normal gear mesh noise. The noise that I'm hearing sounds like: gear mesh gap is too big when on-power AND gear mesh too tight when off-power. That's how the car sounds like.

Currently, I'm still running this mount. Like I said, I really like it in my car. I was able to lessen the angle of the motor by using paper shim (1x tire tape shim) and then applied teflon dry lube on the spur/pinion "stealth mode". This lowered the noise down and the car is performing much better than in stock form (off the package).

Here are some pictures I took just now. This is to give you guys a better idea on what I'm speaking of:

Take a look at the motor in comparison with the rear motor mount or diff shaft:

Now, see it in spec..

8.03mm from the right side:

7.71mm on the left side: Quite a gap right?

This is the countersink screw that may push against the motor if you're using longer screw. In my case, I was using short screw, M2x4. Which doesn't reach the motor.

For those of you that are concerned about the measurement I have between the diff and their bearing holders, here you go...

Right side:

Left side:

This is why I used the paper shim in the bearing holder. This way I know I have the same thickness. Super glueing it will put the bearing holder in place but "may"  on "may not" give the same measurement...

I plan to keep this pod for a while, now that the noise is lessen (almost like how my PN mount is)... It's really good to see Atomic finally releasing new parts for mini-z again. It has been a while...